This year, on recommendation from Trustee Chris Packham and wildlife cameraman Phillip Lovell, we decided to travel to the Picos de Europa in Spain. I have never been to such an amazing place before, and felt that anyone with an interest in raptors should visit, and hopefully the story of what turned out to be a very eventful trip might persuade you to phone the travel agents.

Griffon Vulture on Vulture mountain

Trawling the Internet found us accommodation in a converted farmhouse, owned by an English couple, with views to die for and, according to their website, surrounded by wildlife galore. A short flight to Valladolid in Spain was followed by a long 4 hour drive to our accommodation, but with truly spectacular views. In the lowlands, everywhere we looked were storks’ nests - incredibly huge piles of sticks on every spare building, post or church spire. The drive also took us through two mountain passes with stunning views, some quite scary drops off the side of the road, and almost immediately we were getting quick glimpses of Griffon vultures thermalling high above the peaks.

We settled into our accommodation and found we had the whole complex to ourselves; one of the perks of travelling in April. After a huge meal at a local restaurant (I do not know how anyone in Spain is slim with the size of portions, and the fact everything is covered in salt), and an evening pouring over maps, we planned our trip for the next day.

Colcoa and views of the Picos de europa

First port of call was a small local village called Calcoa and a place called Vulture Mountain. We were not to be disappointed, because as we turned the corner we could see a huge number of birds in a thermal. We sat and watched for a while and in one thermal saw: griffon vultures, golden eagle, Egyptian vultures, peregrine, buzzard and a short-toed eagle. Many birds were roosting at edges of nesting caves and could easily be seen with the naked eye, let alone the close up views with binoculars and telescopes.

We then travelled to the village itself, which was like a land in another time, incredibly rural and probably with poor communities but still stunningly beautiful. We just managed to avoid being run over by a flock of sheep, when a villager opened the door to her house and a huge flock ran out and down the road. All the villages were very similar, and everywhere we were met with a wave and a smile, especially at our attempts at broken Spanish from a phrase book.

The second day took us to Potes, the nearest big town, which was a mecca for tourist coaches, but even here Peregrines could be seen. The day also led to several trips down little side roads and view spots that gave spectacular vies over the Picos range. Hours were spent scouring the ridges for views of the bearded vultures that are supposed to be found there, but with no success.

Eygptian vulture next to nest site

Next was a grand tour, with a long day on twisting mountain roads. Round each corner was a view that took our breath away, and we had to keep stopping the car to jump out and identify the birds that were flying above. Griffons were almost ten a penny, we could not look up at the sky without seeing 2 or 3. The other sight that amazed us was the numbers of Egyptian vultures, mainly in pairs and obviously looking for good breeding spots. We must have looked a very sad couple parked at the side of the road peering through a telescope for almost an hour, watching a pair mating! This tour also rewarded us with a drive through a gorge, which seemed to be a passing place for all the birds - griffons, Egyptians, ravens and a booted eagle all flew directly over our heads for hours, at only a few hundred feet. Then a really spectacular sight whilst watching a pair of Egyptian vultures display in the valley in front of us; a juvenile Goshawk flew out of the wood and directly past us, being chased by a rook.

View from our spanish apartment

All of the week so far had been beautifully hot and sunny and it seemed amazing to be wearing t-shirts in April, however the forecast said the weather may be closing in, and perhaps if we had a little better knowledge of Spanish we may have been prepared for what was to come. The next day proved to be cloudy with a little rain, and we decided to make the drive through the famous Hermida Gorge. Here the road is cut between the mountain with high-sided cliffs on both sides. Quite nerve racking when we met lorries coming the opposite way; there were many breathing in and crossed finger moments. The gorge itself was stunning, but I have to admit it seemed to go on forever, and after a while began to feel a little claustrophobic. However we were soon out of the gorge and on our way to the mountain village of Covadonga, where a vulture restaurant takes place.

It was an amazing sight along the road to come across herds of sheep being shepherded along by 2 or 3 mastiff dogs, with no shepherd in sight. They knew exactly where they were going and kept all the sheep completely under control. What a photo opportunity thought Ashley, drop me off here he says, so I can take a picture of these great dogs, and go up the road and turn around to pick me up. However when I came back Ash was to be found cowering behind a car, because the minute he had stepped out of our car the dogs saw him as a threat to the sheep and had began to chase him down the road. Not one of his better ideas; a theme which really carried on for the day.

the snow has arrived

As we travelled higher up the mountain pass, the roads became narrower and the rain turned first into sleet and, by the time we reached the top, into blizzard conditions. We decided to turn back but unfortunately the weather had taken over the whole area, and trying to get home over mountains passes in a white out in a small rented car was not recommended. However at a very slow speed, and taking almost four times as long as it had to get there, we made it home. Never mind said Ashley, it will just be a brief front and will have passed through by tomorrow.

Next morning we opened the curtains to white! Nothing at all was visible through the thick snow that was falling. So spending a day at home relaxing and reading a book seemed a good idea. That night the snowplough had been through the village and the road seemed quite clear, so we ventured into town for a meal. It was amazing that as we got to the bottom of the mountain road there was not a drop of snow in sight. We had a lovely meal, drove home in good spirits only to get stuck in the snow and ice back at the top of the hill! After much pushing shoving and slipping and sliding we finally got home. Tomorrow it will have all melted says Ashley.

The next day dawned and only 3 foot of snow had fallen during the night! However the view was stunning. Ashley decided this was the best time to look for bear and wild boar tracks, both of which had been seen in the local area. Two hours later he returned like Frosty the snowman, fighting frostbite, and decided it would be another good day to stay in. However with dwindling supplies of just a couple of slices of ham , cheese and a bottle of Fanta we were beginning to worry about what we were going to do. However we need not have worried, the baker with his trusty 4X4 came to make his daily bread delivery to the village, and Richard the owner brought us eggs from his chickens. A sumptuous feast that was, whilst we sat watching every single round of the world ice skating championship on Sky sports.

the car ready for the trip home

We now only had one day left of the holiday and were getting a little worried that we might not make it back to the airport. The next day the snow was still there, but we woke to blue skies, sunshine and the sound of melting snow. We decided to make a break for it a day early and stay the night somewhere near the airport. Ashley and Richard the owner took several hours to dig the car out and get it into such a position that we could head down the road. Next we had to wait for the snowplough; luckily the village was big enough to have the snowplough come through once a day, many smaller ones were not so lucky. So the minute he came everything was thrown in the car, and we made our way gingerly down the road.

We had been told the mountain pass we had to cross would be clear this side by mid morning and was fine on the other side. There seemed to be a little something lost in the translation of ‘clear’ as the snow plough had been through but had just left a track wide enough for one car, so woe betide us if we met anything coming the other way. The road was like an ice rink with the car skidding into the banks on either side, making us wish we had taken out the extra excess charge with the car rental. Then we stopped; the incline was too steep and the wheels just span round and round.

egyptian vulture in flight

Ashley got out to push, but no luck, then a local in a 4x4 came up behind. I’ll tow you out, he said. He helped Ashley push the car into the snowdrift so that he could get his car past ours, but than found out there was nowhere to tie a towrope on. With that he said, you will have to turn around and head back, then got in his car and drove off! We were now stuck in a snowdrift, with no way of turning around and it had started to snow again. We started thinking about all those public warnings on television about spades, blankets and hot drinks and began to think that our packet of mints was not good for mountain survival!

Then along came our 2 knights in shining armour; two young men who, with Ashley, managed to get the car back on the road, and agreed to follow us up the pass in case we got stuck. We finally made it to a pub, which gave the only opportunity of turning round, and we had to make a decision of what to do, when the landlord came out. That way, he said pointing to the way we had just come, is no good (that was an understatement), the other way fine. We bravely decided to carry on and could not believe the difference; the snow had been completely cleared from the road, and although it was 6 or 7 feet high by the side of the road, it was a lovely clear drive.

brave stork in the snow

Along the way though, we felt sorry for the poor storks still bravely sitting on their nests, covered in snow. As you can imagine that night we slept well. Since we had several hours before the plane left, we decided to explore the plains of the Massif. These are the beautiful lowlands, and you can drive for hours without the sight of another car, and all around you are storks as well as Red and Black Kites. This day also saw what was to be the highlight of our trip at a stop at a village called Montealegre, an old village that is currently undergoing major restoration work.

Lesser kestrel in flight

Lesser Kestrel in nest site in church wall

As we drove close by, Ashley commented on a strange coloured kestrel that flew by. Pulling up to take a closer look we discovered we had found a colony of lesser kestrels, a species that is seriously in decline. The rest of the afternoon was spent watching this group of about 15 birds flying around the old church and into the nest site, just an incredible end to the holiday.

We are already planning our trip back there next year, but a bit later in the year! However if anyone is looking for a little piece of raptor heaven, as well as hundreds of other bird species, then look no further than the Picos.

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